painting your stove frame

[vtran265]

I just got off the phone with 2 technical reps from Rutland and Rust-oleum. The Rust-oleum rep stated that their high-heat BBQ paint needs to be cured at 300 degrees. The Rutland rep said their product would not be recommended for surfaces that never saw temperatures above 300 - 350 degrees, since their product is resin based and would not be properly cured. Without trying to sound like an alarmist, I am rethinking how I will redo the frame of the stove. Short of placing the stove in a large industrial furnace, I'm looking for a product that can withstand high-heat, but cure at room temperature.

I have not called the tech reps from Krylon yet, but wanted to hear Sam's opinion on the matter. Sam, does Krylon high-heat paint need to be cured at a specific temperature unlike the other products I just mentioned?

[stoveman]

I think that the manufacturers reps are trying to say that for their product to withstand 1000+ degrees, it must be cured at 300 degrees first. Well, I doubt that the stove frame will see anything that hot. The paint won't fall off or deteriorate if it is not cured at 300. I vote for Krylon, it has worked for me. Besides, I can't read all that little bitty print on the labels anymore!

[vtran265]

Sam, I'll go with your Krylon recommendation. I have a few additional questions on this subject:

Do you apply primer after surface sanding?
Do you apply the paint with a brush or spray can?
How much paint do I need for 1 stove?

I hope you caught as many fish as you do questions.

Cheers,
Victor

[stoveman]

Hi Ya'll, No priming necessary, think I used 2 spray cans depending in condition. Got my glasses out and read the fine print on the can. I'll never do that again! If you read the fine print on anything, you would never use the product. The lawyers tell us the can is goin' to explode, the fumes will put your eyes out (Remember the BB Gun in the eye), don't pick at the little spray hole, don't burn the can, California thinks it is killing their Rat population, bake it, cure it and don't spray it on a kitchen stove! Well, after all that, I still use it. Spray it outside. When you bring it in the house, cure the paint by running all burners for an hour or so with the windows open. Yes, there will be a little odor to the paint. And I have noticed that the stove does Glow a little in the dark! Me too!

[cejesq]

I like Sammy's approach. Go for it. BTW - I've used the Rust-o-leum High Heat Black for several year on my smoker and a big ol' Braunfels grill and never had any problems with it flaking. The legs of the grill have never seen anything near 300 degrees and they've stood up beautifully.

-CJ

[berlyn]

Vinnie,
Hubby used Rust-O-leum high heat because it has a rust inhibitor in it, unlike Krylon. He did not use a primer. Forgot his reason why. He did use a product called Asphalt or WR/8 to remove the rust. It's a product they use on drilling rigs to remove rust. He's used it at work and had some around the house and used it on Big Bertha. Also, he used a die grinder on his air compressor, with a wire brush attatchment to polish all the brass and gas fittings. He's used wire brush on the procelian burners and polished it and it looks like new. No need to reporcelian them.
Also, we should be receiving our stove top in next week sometimes and will be putting Big Bertha back together soon. We'll be adding some more pics as we put her together.

Berlyn

[vtran265]

Berlyn,

Thanks for the details on the stove. Who is Vinnie?

Victor